Controversial?

Crags on which bolts are allowed

There have been BMC meetings in the past at which bolting has been discussed. This has always been and still remains a controversial subject. The spread of bolting throughout the world has been infectious and many now escape to hot rock and bolts during the winter; clip bolts during the summer and train bolts in climbing walls. Trad climbing is still alive and kicking in many places and especially in Britain where this lives side by side with bolts. In the past bolts and climbing walls were unheard of and trad climbing was the only route. Now most people start climbing at climbing walls and get used to bolted routes – trad routes are a different game !! Trad climbing is a precious activity and must be preserved. It is important to control the use of bolts on the crags.

It has been agreed that bolts be allowed in Cumbria on the following crags –

  • Limestone - Chapel Head; Scout Scar; Humphrey Head; Millbeck etc
  • Sandstone - St Bees
  • Quarried- Hodge Close; Cathedral etc (Slate); Bram Crag (Micro Granite); Dalt Quarry (Borrowdale)

In order to bolt a crag the following should be agreed

  • Permission of landowner
  • Agreement of local BMC meeting
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